Introduction: towards a new classification of rums
It is increasingly difficult for consumers to find their way through the ocean of rums on offer. Today, we tend to classify them by origin, or rather by "tradition". More clearly: for example, colonizing country (Note that we have still made progress since the "Dark Rum / White Rum" classification). Thus, we can distinguish the large families that are the Spanish, English and French styles , each representing characteristic profiles. In most cases, it must be admitted that this works rather well. Except that there are now too many exceptions. And more and more. With the help of globalization, the origin of a rum no longer necessarily implies a raw material associated with a production technique, and vice versa. The classification by tradition therefore loses much of its relevance.
This confusion leaves the amateur perplexed, even suspicious, because he no longer knows which saint to turn to. Rum loses credibility and consideration as a result. This lack of reference points leaves room for all kinds of freedom and extravagance. Extravagance is not a problem in itself (and even less freedom), "rum is fun" as they say, but it is important not to maintain a vagueness that would, precisely, aim to deceive the consumer. The latter has the need and the right to know what he is buying, just as he has the right to decide in his soul and conscience what he wants to drink.
Paradoxically, while there are so many "premium" rums, we don't know what the criteria are that define an authentic and quality rum. Luca Gargano from the Italian house Velier and Richard Seale from the Foursquare distillery in Barbados have been working for several years towards greater transparency and offer rums without any additions, whether sugar or artificial flavors. Many producers and bottlers are now adhering to this approach and bottle labels are increasingly rich in information. These two enthusiasts and great rum professionals have decided to go further by proposing an objective classification, primarily based on the distillation method, the main factor of authenticity. Here are the suggested categories:
- Pure single rum : A rum from a single distillery, produced in a traditional pot still, from molasses or pure cane juice (in this case we speak of “Pure single agricole rum”).
- Single blended rum : A blend of rums produced in a traditional pot still and rums produced in a traditional column, from a single distillery.
- Traditional Rum : A molasses rum distilled in a traditional column.
- Agricultural rum : A rum made from pure cane juice distilled in a traditional column.
- Rum : A rum produced in multiple, modern distillation columns, within a more or less large installation.
Our interview with Richard Seale
Who better than Richard Seale and his frankness to tell us about this ambitious project? Here is an exchange that will help you understand the philosophy of the approach.
What is the purpose of this classification and what are the issues involved?
Richard:
Rum currently struggles to properly convey intrinsic value. Neither color nor tradition of origin can indicate whether a rum is produced artisanally (discontinuous distillation) or on an industrial scale, by multi-column plants. This situation has led us to a marketing approach to premium rums similar to that of vodka , where packaging is the only indicator of value. Some rums claim to be premium based on their packaging when they are produced on an industrial scale, have very poor (if not inauthentic) flavors, and ambiguous age indications.
Ultimately, we do not know very well what the authentic flavor of a rum is. Connoisseurs do not have the keys to knowing that a pure rum from a pot still represents the authentic flavor of rum, unlike a highly tampered neutral alcohol that would also be labeled as rum. The classification will help guide connoisseurs in terms of value and authenticity.
This will also allow for proper evaluation of rums by enthusiasts, journalists and competition judges. To date, a judge may have to compare a full-bodied Jamaican rum to a light Puerto Rican rum simply because they are both "amber". In a cocktail recipe that calls for "amber rum", the result will vary greatly depending on which one chooses between the two rums.
Where is this classification supposed to appear? On labels, in stores…?
We are gradually integrating it into our labels and other actors who support the initiative are joining us. However, its main users will be amateurs, journalists and competitions. It is above all a tool intended for them. They will be able to use it in their writings and in the organization of evaluation categories.
Are you working towards official recognition?
No, however an AOC type certification could emerge in a particular country.
Have you been in contact with entities like ACR (Authentic Caribbean Rum: A label that already imposes certain rules guaranteeing authenticity) for example, and how do they perceive it?
The ACR campaign serves too many competing interests. I don't expect all of its members to embrace it.
How can we explain to the general public that this is not a “value judgment”?
This is indeed a value judgment. It is not an order of preference or quality.
Do you plan to support distributors who would be willing to relay this classification, through training, etc.?
Luca Gargano and I provide training whenever we have the opportunity. I gave a presentation at the Whisky Exchange earlier this year and everyone was enthusiastic.
I have seen several ideas regarding the last category (Industrial Rum, Modern Rum, Rum). Has the choice of a name been made today?
Yes, it will simply be "Rum". However, the terms "Modern Rum" or "Industrial Rum" can also be used to show that this genre is recent on the one hand, since it has been developed over the last 40 years or so, and on the other hand invariably produced on an industrial scale.
While we're at it, there are three new Foursquare products that have recently become available (Port Cask Finish, Zinfandel Cask/Bourbon Cask Blend, and 2004 Cask Strength), can you tell us a bit about them?
These three rums are limited in quantity. We have shipped the last of the Ports but they should still be available on the market for a few more months. The response to the Zinfandel has been incredible. Both the Zinfandel and the 2004 won gold medals at the major London competitions: the ISC (International Spirits Challenge) and the IWSC (International Wine & Spirits Competition). The 2004 also won a trophy at the ISC.
What makes me particularly happy is that these rums represent two opposing approaches: the 2004 is old-school, aged only in ex-bourbon barrels, with the pot still part dominating the aromatic profile (Editor's note: The rums from the Foursquare distillery are blends of pot still and column rums. I'll let you place them in the right category, to see if you've been following!). The Zinfandel is more experimental, I had fun aging the rum in old wine barrels. In the end, the rums are successful with different audiences.
Thanks to Richard for sharing with us the spirit of this classification. Know that Rhum Attitude is about to adopt it to classify the rums in its online store…
Nico, from the Rhum Attitude team