Third and final part of our series of articles dedicated to Grosperrin Cognacs. Find the first and second parts to learn everything about the world of cognac and the work of Guilhem Grosperrin.
Special distillations for Grosperrin
The big merchants contract the winegrowers, and ask them for spirits distilled especially for them. These qualitative requirements are sometimes perceived as intrusive by the winegrowers , the houses define among other things with what precise method or what heating curve the brandy should be distilled. This is not without recalling once again the English colonial system , with the marks of rum manufactured according to the needs of the traders of the old continent.
G rosperrin also makes special orders for distillates , but works with the winemaker to try to find out what he thinks works best, what he knows how to do best, and how, with this or that grape variety. The specifications are therefore drawn up in this way, so that the singularity of a terroir can shine through in a single cask, or as a particular element of a blend.
For the " compte 00" spirits put into barrels directly by Grosperrin, Guilhem adopts exactly the same system as with the "old" ones acquired from the winegrowers. Some are bottled in Single Cask by the house , while others are suitable for a very specific merchant client.
C varietals, the best VSOP on the market
Maison Grosperrin also produces some blends, such as the C épages cuvée . This cognac with a unique process was first bottled 2 years ago, but has been under study since 2011. It consists of vinifying F olle Blanche , Colombard and U gni Blanc grape varieties separately , and distilling them separately for the first time. The resulting brouillis are blended and distilled a second time (" bonne chauffe" ) . Each year, a vintage is aged, then several vintages are blended for a very high-level VSOP.
The success of this vintage and of the "custom" distillations will inevitably lead to an increase in production with the partner winegrower, so that the harvested and distilled production will soon increase from 10 to 30 hectolitres of pure alcohol per year.
A sophisticated art of tasting
To be able to appreciate and judge an eau- de -vie "at first sniff" in a cellar, every day of the year, Guilhem has developed a keen sense of tasting . This was forged by tasting a lot , by discussing too , in order to arrive at an idea very quickly, and above all to remember it for a long time, 10 years later if necessary.
He also learned by working as a trader with the big houses, trying to understand the reference framework of each of them. Learning initially within a strict grid then allows one to freely detach oneself from it, with ease, to create one's own reference framework.
Specially dedicated tasting work sessions are also necessary to feed oneself, as well as refresher training. The latter are less and less frequent, however, because experience allows one to know how to develop a mental map, a construction of images that allow one to immediately know what one has in the glass, and especially what one is going to do with it. The effectiveness of this sensory evaluation therefore depends above all on training, and a certain specialization. Even if he knows how to taste many other spirits, Guilhem tastes at least ten samples of old cognac eaux-de-vie per day.
The finish of Grosperrin cognacs
As we mentioned above, fine arbitrations are made regarding the reduction, when there is one, whether it is done before putting into barrels, or during aging. As a general rule, cognacs dating from before the 1970s are bottled at cask strength. Younger eaux-de-vie, post 1970 (which are not quite young either, sorry for our readers of the same vintages…), generally benefit from a slight reduction, in order to find the optimal degree.
Grosperrin Cognacs do not contain any adjuvant . But the traditional practice is to add a little sugar and wood to a maximum of 4% obscuration. This percentage corresponds to the difference between the degree displayed on the label (the real degree), and that measured by the alcohol meter. Sweetening or coloring distorts this measurement of the degree, hence this percentage of accepted difference.
Natural obscuration also occurs with time and extraction of wood compounds. But it does not exceed 0.5 % before 10 years, 1% before 30 years, 1.5% between 30 and 60 years, and 1.5 to 2 % after 70 years.
At the time of bottling, special attention is paid to the presence of phthalates (which, remember, caused a cognac scandal in 2012). It can be caused by any presence of plastic, at any stage of production. For example, these phthalates can pass into the wine, if it has been stored in plastic tanks, and pass into the distillation. It is therefore necessary to ensure that all tanks, seals, pump elements, pipes, etc. are made of silicone or Teflon.
The final touch
Finally, the design of some labels (including those of the sublime MMC, Moûts Mutés au Cognac ) is drawn by the talented Axelle, Guilhem's sister, from a workshop next to her wine and spirits cellar (whose selection is mind-blowing...). The labeling is done by hand, in the Saintes workshop, sometimes on types of bottles that "rum lovers" know well 😉
How much we learned in one day! Guilhem insists on the need to understand the history, the spirit and the functioning of the world of cognac, in order to appreciate it as it should be. We understand that this monument of our heritage does not usurp this title, as it is linked to France, to its past, present and future exchanges with the whole world. This is exactly what made us love rum in the first place, and what makes us love discovering all these fascinating spirits today. We hope that you will enjoy, as we do, immersing yourself in this culture and tradition, before tasting your next Grosperrin cognac .
A big thank you to Guilhem for his welcome, we wish him many wonderful treasure hunts!
Well done and thank you for your series of fascinating articles!
Thank you very much Manu, it is true that the Grosperrin house does exciting work, in the heart of a region very rich in history and traditions.