Between Le Lamentin and Fort de France, in Martinique , is one of the last independent distilleries on the island (along with Neisson) which still operates solely on steam.
Originally, in 1842, there was La Jambette, a sugar refinery with a small molasses distillery that Charles Henri renamed La Favorite in the mid-19th century. After difficulties at the turn of the 20th century, it was bought by Henri Dormoy who transformed the sugar plantation into a modern agricultural distillery. He introduced a large Henri Marriol steam engine, still in service today, as well as new distillation equipment. He also developed the railway there.
The middle of the 20th century was a turbulent time: it saw the reopening of the sugar factory and the closure of the distillery. Then the latter was restored at the end of the century after various purchases and resales of distilling equipment with other dwellings.
Today, La Favorite distills around 500,000 litres of 55° rum per year, 15 to 20% of which are used for ageing. The first ageing operations were carried out between 1940 and 1950, when André Dormoy took over the business from his father, who died in 1938. The famous La Flibuste vintage was created at the same time and was born in the late 1970s with the first bottling of this exceptional rum.
The 60-hectare operation allows the distillery to be self-sufficient in 80% of its cane needs. The remaining 20% is purchased from small independent planters, located in the surrounding communes, with whom the distillery has worked in trust for many years. This allows it to ensure the quality of 100% of its raw material.
Fermentation is relatively long for Martinique since it lasts between 48 and 72 hours.
Two columns are currently used: a copper column (for the Cœur de canne) and a half stainless steel – half copper column (for the Authentique).
We asked Emmanuelle Parent , the brand manager, a few questions to find out more about the latest bottlings presented last October at the Dugas show:
The Rivière Bel'air white rum plot
Three single casks from 2008 including n°2 and n°8
And the 1999 Cuvée Privilège Dormoy
What are the specific characteristics of the red cane used for the Bel Air River?
Emmanuelle:
Red cane is an old variety, created in Barbados in 1964. It was replanted at La Favorite 5 years ago, selected in particular for its high sugar content. It is a variety that requires special attention. It tends to lie down in the fields, which makes it difficult to harvest mechanically. At La Favorite, our 60 hectares are still harvested entirely by hand, we have the opportunity to pamper this sugar cane, which ensures good yields.
What are the characteristics of the plot reserved for this cane?
The Rivière Bel'air plot is exposed to the setting sun. The cane growing there therefore benefits from significant sunshine throughout the day, promoting very sweet juices. In addition, this plot of barely 4 hectares is slightly sloping, which allows for good soil drainage, and therefore good cane growth.
Did this rum undergo any special fermentation?
We have in fact set up a specific fermentation protocol for this rum, with the support of the Technical Center for Sugar Cane (CTCS), which consists of more regular analyses of cane wine than usual. All this allows for better control of fermentations.
Is it distilled on the 100% copper column? At what degree does it flow from this column?
Yes, this rum was distilled in our old copper column, the one where our Cœur de Canne is born every year. When poured, it comes out at 68% alcohol.
Does he benefit from any special rest, reduction, or mixing?
This rum then rested in stainless steel vats for almost 15 weeks (i.e. twice the minimum required by the AOC Martinique specifications), during which it was slowly reduced, stirred daily, to reach 53% alcohol.
How were the 2008 barrels selected?
The first selection of 2008 took place in 2012 for the bottling of our old rum Cœur de Rhum , and other barrels continue to age to this day for future vintages.
In 2016, we selected 10 barrels from this 2008 vintage, those which, in our opinion, expressed the best of this 8-year-old wine. They had not been topped up for almost 2 years, in anticipation of this bottling.
What type of barrel is it?
This is a selection of cognac oak barrels. You should know that a very large part of our cellar is made up of barrels of this origin.
How much is rum reduced before casking?
In 2008, we divided the aging process into three parts:
- a first reduced to 55% alcohol, notably in anticipation of the bottling of Cœur de Rhum, our 4 year old,
- a second reduced to 60% alcohol, for more elaborate vintages,
- and finally the third part was aged without having been reduced beforehand, therefore at around 71% alcohol, particularly for longer aging.
What type of barrel was used for the 1999?
The Privilège 1999 is a blend of around fifteen ex-cognac barrels. It is a limited series of 3,500 numbered bottles.
What makes this particular vintage a tribute to André Dormoy?
It was in 1999 that André Dormoy, Paul's father, current manager, started his distillery for the last time, before leaving us in early 2000. This vintage is therefore his last aging. It is a rum full of charm and aromatic complexity, the fruit of more than 60 years of dedication to his family business.
What percentage do you estimate the angel share loss on this product to be?
17 years of aging corresponds to approximately 70% loss in volume, or more than 140L on a 200L barrel.
Angels are very greedy in the Antilles!
Can you tell us about the methods of assembling barrels for this type of product?
This is a selection of barrels, assembled in 2016 in oak tuns. This Cuvée benefited from a few weeks of rest before being muddled last October at 43% alcohol.
La Favorite is one of the few distilleries to offer such long aging, can you share just a little of your secrets?
In fact, for many years we have been bottling very old vintages that have spent more than 20 years in oak barrels.
André Dormoy was one of the pioneers in this field.
La Favorite is a family business. We benefit from the legacy left by the generations that preceded us. Today, we bottle the aging of André, Paul Dormoy's father. And what we age each year today will be the treasure of future generations, we hope.
Thanks to Emmanuelle and La Favorite for sharing their passion with us. The Single Casks have already become rare gems but there is still time to throw yourself on the Rivière Bel Air which is a very beautiful success.
Nico from the Rhum Attitude team